The next day after a departure somewhat conflicting with the manager of my hotel, I am going to move in with Sophie who lives only 10 minutes away. Arriving by Julien I learn that Sophie does not want to go to Machu Pichu, having done this before. My heart missed a beat. I propose to Julian to go two on my bike to Santa Teresa. From there we will walk the few miles between us and Aguascalientes, the starting point of the trail that leads to Machu Pichu.
the afternoon we leave all three visit the Inca ruins of Pisac where we get lost trying to recreate the scenes of the time. We descend on foot to the village of Pisac. The evening was rather quiet. I go with Julie looking to find a helmet and a sleeping bag in case we would have to sleep outside the night before to Machu Pichu.
We're really excited to make this trip. Julien is a first. The bags are ready. Sophie makes us the latest recommendations. And here we are on the road.
I took over the Urubamba via the trail of the day in reverse. A few miles later, the front wheel burst. The journey begins. We drive to the nearest village laboriously searching for a mechanic. We stop briefly in a village to better study the problem. Within minutes of Peruvians are surrounded around the bike to help us and participate in the repair. We are trying together to remove the front wheel but in vain. I decided to join the only open garage at low speed and remove on place. When we finally pull out the wheel, the air is dead. We must replace it and go to Urubamba to find one another. We leave the main road joining the wheel by hand to find a car that will take us to the village. After several minutes someone stops. An Israeli who lives in Urubamba. On reaching the village we finally find the store that has the room that we seek. A "mecanico replaces worn and the room we go again. One of the shuttle that will take us to Cuzco on the road. The bus is crowded space. We stand at the front as we can. The discussion goes well. The trip is barely started and already there is nothing like we expected.
The bus drops us at the crossroads of the village where the motorcycle. We hasten to put the wheel and start as soon as possible with the satisfaction of having successfully completed the first mission of this journey. It is already 2:30 p.m. ET as an inhabitant called Urubamba we are still at 4.00 San Teresa. Do not waste time. We go through the village of Ollaytambo. Few miles after the road begins to climb into a series of curves and endless loops. The landscape of the valley give way to the mountain. Some Farms are populated along the road. What always surprised to see in some conditions some farmers live. Temperatures cool. But the images are beautiful. The timing is really fun. Julian is thrilled. We spend a pass at 4300 meters. The high visibility is not very good and we expected rain. The road descends the other side of the valley where conditions are similar. Nevertheless, the scenery has changed and we live in a humid and lush vegetation. We stop in a small house along the road which sells some cakes and coffee to relax a little. These moments are always pleasant. And it the opportunity to meet people and see what looks like a bit of Peru "inside." I know these houses for me to be arrested before. I know that these cases are part of the trip. Inside the fire crackles and a colony of Cuy, so large vole which Peruvians love, have made their nest. It is time to leave and face the damage from rain. We'll streams regularly crossing the road. One moment, the route is hilly with large stones fallen from the cliff above. A bus stopped to see if he can pass. This is just the beginning of what we call the road to the unexpected.
We drive up Alfamayo where the police asked us to wait as long as the machines that resurfacing the road clear the path. It is also the moment when we finally leave the asphalt for the rest of the journey. It is 17:30 and the night falls in an hour. I'm not tired and I can ride at night. We're going to Santa Maria and beyond the next wave of cars that make the same journey and whose headlights also help us to lead us on the road and avoid the many potholes. Arrived in Santa Maria we rest a while. If you want to go to Machu Pichu tomorrow in the first hour, it is better from Santa Teresa. We decide to hit the road despite the night. What is always strange. After a few kilometers I reach my reserve tank, but I have enough fuel to reach the village. On the road we passed people walking lost in the middle of nowhere. One of them tipsy on beer wonder once happened to ask a taxi to pick them.
last hour had my engine warms up quickly. This must be linked to the condition of the road. As soon as I drive on rough roads the engine warms up faster, but it has nothing to reassure myself anyway. Later we are stopped by a river whose current is strong enough. There is no escape. I stop the engine time to think. I'm not too hot to cross. We are on the verge of returning to Santa Maria when we caught up with the marchers lost at least two of them, the rest of the group until the car back. The time is not really reassuring. However we both confirm that the river can be crossed. Despite their alcohol, I agree bet. Julien takes off his shoes and through the first, aided by the headlights of the motorcycle. Then it's my turn to cross. I spend difficulty playing on the clutch. The engine roared a few times but I passes. Men are long gone. We exceed them again. Starts now this moment of uncertainty when we wonder if one day we will reach Santa Teresa. Later the valley is lit. We are saved. Finally Almost. A few miles a landslide of stone larger than previous fills the whole way. A car is stopped. The passengers got out and waiting to be pick them up. I leave in recognition despite the prohibitions of the driver. Only a bike can pass. Julian pushes the bike to start it - my battery is already dead for a few days - and passengers of the car following me since I am the only one who can illuminate the road. We finally arrived in Santa Teresa, freed from the heavy stress that we already contained within an hour. It is 9:13 p.m. on my laptop. I worry for those still lost on the road. The car above has been warned. The two men will soon join her at least I hope so. It's the end of the day, the first day of the trip and the route of the unexpected.
The alarm rings. It is 7:00. The day before we did not have the courage to wake up at 4:00 in the morning as we had originally planned to begin the climb on Aguascalientes. Finally away from logic, except maybe our own, we will not go to Machu Pichu. First route that we had the day before we were so overwhelmed with images and adventures that Machu Picchu would not have had its effect. We were looking for other things. This other thing that stuck with me since the beginning of my trip. And then we were not very hot to pay 50USD entrance fee of the site that I consider to be a flight that is made for tourists. A price dishonest. For most travelers, Machu Picchu is the ultimate goal of their journey. There are no other exits that do not go. My journey is different and my heart was so filled with images before that I'm not really in the same vein. As it does not see me completely equal Mach Pichu. My reaction really not going to change much. Millions of tourists flock each year to see the most famous Inca site in the world as well as the temples of Angkor. But I have my beliefs. And Julien share them. The better we are in the same vein. If he had wanted to go, he would of course have otherwise.
Instead we take a king's breakfast and we hit the road the day before in the opposite direction because there is no escape. We find this time of day the road to Santa Maria that night we had begun the previous day. That landscapes are beautiful. Basically the river requires strength in the mountains sharp and powerful. The chasm is impressive. And yet he does not have worried for a second the day before. This road is really insane. But amid all the unforeseen overtakes us.
A strange noise that we can not explain and we identify follows as we drive. We stop several times but no explanations. It will drive up to Santa Maria to conclude that my rear wheel bearings are broken. Quellabamba in opposite direction to ours is the nearest town where we can change them. We have no choice but to go out there and our delay return to Cuzco. Leaving Santa Maria heavy rain begins to fall. The road is horrible brood of potholes and puddles giant. I'm really surprised at the condition of roads and the terrible consequences and dangerous rains in the region. Despite the budgets, road conditions do not improve each year. There is a bit much corruption to do with it. Reached Quellabamba we lose more time waiting for the mechanic who quickly we change the bearings. But the bike works well is the key. I am reassured. We drove at high speed before reaching Alfamayo the dark. What a pleasure to finally find the asphalt we left for two days. We sat in the only hotel on the road Alfamayo whose size does not exceed 20 houses and we lock ourselves in a restaurant in which our only road presence is astounding. We eat two plates of pasta with chicken. The world's best at the moment. Time to discuss fatigue and reminds us to order.
The next day away from the curse catches up waiting in the morning. All night the rain was heavy. New crumbling earth and stones have blocked access to the village of Alfamayo. And of course we are a few hundred meters from the injured party. We have to wait until everything is cleared to resume the road. The "Dueño" of the hotel we moved to a cafe to wait. We watch all videos férias filmed in Portugal and Brazil. The concept is simple these férias. The bulls are released into the streets and residents face the beasts often risking their lives. When tradition fleurte with risk. After two hours the way is finally cleared and we can move on. The rise will be difficult to pass. The cold and the rain prevents us from speaking. We have just enough time to stop to say goodbye to the family where we had coffee on the go. Then finally we cross the pass. We drive on the reservation already for a few kms. We have just enough to reach the village of Ollaytambo to pause and resume gasoline. Then we return a single line on Cuzco, happy to finally arrive.
We leave behind the worst difficulties, but also amazing memories and a unique adventure that we can forget.
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