I decide to leave the next day in Cuzco. Afresh on Lake Titicaca sounds like a good solution. But upon waking I change my plans and decides to go through the Colca Canyon two days before resuming the bike towards the lake and then Bolivia. Julien helps me load my bike and push one last time to turn it on. We parted warmly. We expect to see us can be in the south of France where Julian will play this summer with his band. Or see us for a few musical projects.
As every meeting that I leave, like every story that ends on my road is tearing. My heart is tied to nostalgia and tenesmus. I roll the head in the clouds to Siscuani As I leave the asphalt and the road to Juliaca and Puno, to plunge towards the track leading to two days in Arequipa motorcycle there.
I soon found the land and the potholes on the early miles. The road suggests large green spaces and a large lagoon. Then this is the entrance to the Altiplano, which stretches for kms. Late in the afternoon the sky and thunder rumbles load. In the distance I see lightning scroll. I walk faster than I expected and reach the town of Espinar to the end of the day where I spend the night.
In the morning I am full of gasoline under the gaze of curious people around me. A few miles after leaving Espinar see, I have to face a river that crosses the road. In front of a biker that I am performing corner waiting to do the same. The bike goes hard. I stop several times. The boots filled with water, I stop to change socks. Feet finally dry, I grew in green open spaces that make up the Para altiplano to the town of Machupuente where I stop for a coffee and enjoy the sun of the morning. I'm talking with village women. It sells for trout. The rivers of the region are infected. This small moment of pause Sunny is a real joy. I pay for my coffee and a pair of socks purchased from one of the ladies, and also dry out again.
The road gradually sinking in the Devil's Canyon that starts from the village of Machupuente and even reached the meeting point three different canyons. The scenery is absolutely surreal. The rock formations are the same as on the website of the Bosque Piedras Huallay I had seen in the southern Cordillera. Volcanic rocks from millions of years dating Neogene erosion that has finished cutting and refining giving them various forms. The canyon is amazing. This road is one of the best may drive the country as well as that between Huallay and Canta and that between Santa and Huaraz. I continue to the village of Suykutambo. A few miles later I foolishly fall with the bike. It was not until the passage of another rider after hours Johny name to help me lift the bike that I can meet decidedly alone. The road becomes more difficult. While I was traveling on the part of the path the river has completely covered my clutch stopped working. The bike is not moving. I stop and try to solve the problem yourself, but everything seems normal, I do not understand what could happen. I'm enjoying the passage of another motorcycle to take me to the village where Suykutambo known as the driver, a mechanic can help me. Returned to the scene it is concluded that the clutch discs are worn and need to change. He told me that I can find only Arequipa at 8.00am bus Suykutambo. So begins another journey for me different. I do not know yet but it will be long and arduous.
The engineer's first name Eusevio is also one that ensures the line between Suykutambo Espinar and starting point of the bus to Arequipa. It is 2:00 p.m. ET must ensure the line in one hour. This gives us time to put the bike away in a farmhouse a few hundred meters away from one of his relatives, and returning to the village. Unfortunately without the hard wear. I will however need it to recover new. But I do not want to waste time.
I take the wrong decision because once Arequipa I can not find the same parts without the worn disks. A sixteen-hour round trip for nothing. Just then arrived at Arequipa I'm leaving that evening to pick them up. I will arrive early morning bus on Espinar, time to sleep a bit and join Eusevio Suykutambo to restart on the afternoon to pick up the used discs.
The most interesting may be in this story is to see in my relationship with the village Suykutambo. Residents recognize me and I am the "gringo" in their eyes and the children call me "Carlos". I saw the pace of this village, take the same bus as everyone eats the same thing and sleeps in the only hostel available without a shadow of a single tourist. In the early morning finally arrives Eusevio finally loosen the nut that we had the wrong key. Just enough time to return to the village, preparing my things and go back to Arequipa. After 11 hours on the bus - we were stuck on the road for 5:00 I do not know why - I have finally arrived. The next day I return Honda at the store by a miracle tells me an address where I can find new discs.
At a time when I write these lines I finally found what I was looking for and I'm a few hours of returning to the bike. Tomorrow, I hope this will be the end of an unexpected break in the journey, a story with the people Suykutambo, also the end of a long struggle. I only aspire to something now. Back on the road quickly.
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