Off to Amazon ... I left La Paz on the fourth day after my arrival. My itinerary includes going through the death road, this notorious road. The latter has for long been the only land link that allowed Paz to the Yungas and the Amazon basin and supplying the capital of all kinds of fruits and vegetables that grow in this region. The death road named after the constant danger that exists there and destabilizing the precipice that can be seen from the road. Many bus drivers have even left death in recent years.
Today the context is somewhat different. Another way paved the way to avoid death and connects the Paz safely. The road of death, it is still impressive. But it is borrowed by a few people and a flood of tourists who want to bike down to the village of Coroico in the Yungas located.
What strikes the mind when one arrives in this region is the radical difference of landscapes that contrast directly with the severity of the Altiplano, however, is located just a few tens of kilometers. After a neck to 5300 meters, the paved road descends into a valley less mineral and more colorful vegetation. The transition is even difficult to define. Without one really noticing, the scenery gradually changes. The air is hot and humid. A few hours ago, I struggled again against the cold of the altiplano. I now warm in my dress motorcycle. The vegetation is green in color and waterfalls you fall on your head as if they came from the sky. You almost forget that we just leave the height of the valley of La Paz. From Coroico, where I would not stop, I roll up to Caravan on a long road, and made difficult by the rains that fall every day. I roll in the mud, and cross many trucks who travel to or from La Paz. However the further I go, the more I feel that I approach the Amazon basin. The elevation descends and the vegetation is similar to a real jungle in the middle of which flows a river large, faithfully follows the road all along. Caravani is a good step towards my Amazon project. I am now at the gates of the Amazon. I hope to reach Rurrenabaque by one or two days.
The two days that follow will be difficult and painful motorcycle. There are obviously some good passing but the track is bad. The first day until Yumico is not so difficult. But I did not put so much distance to prepare. And the last two will be under heavy rain. Yumico no more than a village where truckers stop for the night. Everything is in a long aisle that cuts the site in two. For several hours I'm sick which increases my fatigue of the day. Shortly after my arrival, some road just settled in the adjoining rooms. What happens next is may be the worst night since the beginning of my journey.
The following can be the worst day of riding. The portion of track between Rurrenabaque and Yumuco is just sand. The track is slippery and care must be taken because the bike slips easily from the rear. I fall 3 times, waiting each that can come help me lift the bike. I quickly tired. One moment, because of work, part of the road for 100 meters is very difficult to pass. Trucks and cars spin and struggling to roll. This is the show for the few residents who live along the road. The same situation arises three times. Mud et les nombreuses galeries présentes sur la route empêchent de rouler à allure normale et m’oblige à être concentré en permanence. Il me faut 5 heures pour arriver à Rurrenabaque au lieu des 2 heures habituelles. Je n’ai jamais autant été heureux et soulagé d’arriver quelque part après tant de souffrance physique et mentale.
Je retrouve Erick en fin de journée alors que je reprend des forces tranquillement installée dans un des hamacs de l’hôtel où nous sommes installés. Je lui annonce que vu l’état des routes je ne prévois plus de poursuivre vers le nord avec la moto. Nous n’en aurons ni le temps ni la strength. It is better to stick around a few days before heading back to La Paz.
the evening we discuss what we do during our stay here. Agencies offer tours on the river Yocumo where it is possible to see a diverse flora and fauna including alligators with luck. They also organize treks in the jungle for two days. However this plan does not really my branch. So to say I am usually such an agency. I prefer to organize a joint project with Erick freelance. Erick is in exactly the same perspective. To do things freely.
The next day we prepare the expedition which will last three days. We buy the food they need. We bought a tent on Erick Paz. No gas cylinder suitable for cooking rice or pasta. Whatever. We eat cold. By early afternoon we cross the river by boat Blessed whose current is powerful, to pass on the opposite bank and arrive in San Buenaventura.
Once on the other side we learn about possible places to be able to camp. A guide shows us a path that leads to a river beside which we can camp. Without knowing the premises and without a map, if it exists, we leave the main road we embark on a path that rises sharply from the first meters. An hour later we reach that goal the top of the hill. The vegetation is dense and moist. We're almost hard to take sometimes. The road down the other side and leads to a steep slope. There is no real access. We're hoping to turn around to change direction, but in vain. At the midpoint we identify a more open area that is perfect for setting up our camp. We're not that far from San Buenaventura, but certainly we are in the jungle. Everything is really wild, and sound, to hear the psychedelic songs of birds. We're trying to light a fire before darkness not stopping us. The wood is wet and does not. Despite our many attempts, we will not light a fire. At dusk we set up the tent and savor sardines in tomato sauce accompanied with pasta salad. A true delight. Then we fall asleep.
During the night, heavy rains flooded the tent, which proves not to be of high quality. We will finish the night curled up on one another so that our bags are permanently wet.
In the morning we decide that this is not the time to engage in this kind of "trip" and retrace our path toward Rurrenabaque. On the way back two spiders are sure to bite me hard. We return to San Buenaventura dirty and wet. It was a semi failure, but even sardines and rain, we do not regret it.
back to Rurrenabaque we will spend two quiet days in the village. Great weather and back and I personally feel like the rest of this trip and misadventure. I would also to correct a few points on the bike, and resolder my luggage carriers, parts of which were transferred from my previous falls. An afternoon Erick rent a motorcycle taxi to go riding together two hours on the road to Reyes. The trails are dry and passable, true happiness. Fingers crossed for the same conditions the next day on the way home, I fear that greatly.
is unfair but we have to do with it. There will be no third sunny day. The rain woke during the night the road plunging into a total slump. I put 5 hours to reach Yocumo, like to go. I find the same galleries, the same giant puddles and the same difficulty. I push up to a village two hours of Yocumo to spend the night.
The next day I'll be Caravani at 12:30. I have trouble. My crown is back again worn and no longer causes the chain whose links are too long. We must change everything. Fortunately I found the parts. I also take this opportunity to change my brake pads that have more rubber and scratch disks. I'm leaving at 16:30 caravans. I arrive in La Paz at night four hours later after a very nice trip and a nice pleasant way.
I am now on La Paz for two days. My friend Tiphaine arrives February 19. We remain somewhat in the capital before heading back to Bolivia for 15 days to two on the bike.
