Friday, December 31, 2010
Dog's Hind Leg Twitches Constantly
Hanchaco - Huaraz: heading for the hills
I arrived in Huaraz well as I the were promised. I found that I had left the rain in the Ecuadorian Sierra. To be honest it had not failed. The last hour is difficult with fatigue, rain and cold.
The day was longer, from 8.00 motorcycle. But which way. I leave Santa located a few miles from Chimbote to bury myself in the land and join the Cordillera. The route follows closely the Rio Santa, which ends its long journey into the ocean and starts on the glaciers of Huascaran located more than 6000 meters of altitude in the Peruvian Sierra. The road is gradually taking the altitude. And vegetation becomes scarce as the miles progress. Rice paddies and fertile fields of the coast give way gradually to a Western Cordillera mineral, dry desert. The various minerals that make up the mountains bring nuances and colors in landscapes.
The road was asphalt far becomes a stony track from the village of Chuquicara. However before I understand the need to continue the trail, I'm stupidly in the asphalt sure I take the right road. I cross three timber bridges at a slow pace for fear of reversing the bike so the balance is difficult to maintain. After an hour and a half I will learn eventually that I drove towards the wrong direction and that I must return to Chuquicara to take the runway. Joy. I'm back at full speed, the 3 bridges returns with more confidence, takes gasoline and borrows Chuquicara this time the right way. The track is very stony and earthy. The true off road. The mountains are impressive. I'm at about 3:30 Caraz. Halfway to form a canyon. The river is narrower and the mountains fall steeply. I go regularly Many tunnel what amuses me greatly. The scenery is spectacular, the road may be the most impressive from the start even though it is difficult to compare these landscapes with what I have seen before in Colombia or Ecuador.
An hour Caraz I go through the Canyon del Pato, passes and finally comes to Huallanca 17:00 Caraz. I left the coast this morning 7.30. I still have one hour to Huaraz and the trick is played. I reach my destination exhausted and chilled at the beginning of the night.
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
Kimberly Bergalis Pic Life
Montanita - Trujillo (Peru)
I can link quickly kms in the day to the border with Peru. At Guayaquil, I am arrested again by police. This time, I only give them to me for 10USD leave. The Pan American
km long field of banana until Huanquillas, the border town. The time to make representations to the customs and immigration and a few hours later I'm in Peru.
The landscape is changing radically. Tumbes past, the border town, the desert takes place. The climate is drier and warmer. The long road to one side of the ocean and the other desert lands and terribly dry. Surreal landscapes. It is not far from the planet Mars.
I will arrive in Mancora in the late afternoon noon small village of surfing and partying that has developed in recent years. The village, divided into two parts, one over the other typical tourist, has hotels, restaurants and markets of all kinds.
I found William's friend met in Cali, Colombia, and travel wheel chair.
I will stay 4 days, until the day after Christmas in Mancora. Some feasts, and good meetings with Loki Hotel where I'll stay to the end of the stay. And go back to Tumbes to buy a new guitar. Grief is buried forever.
I leave the 26th for Piura. I had originally planned to push on to Chiclayo in the motorcycle but decided otherwise. I stay in Piura for the night and I makes me seriously in a garage overnight. After review we must change the back strap and put a new chain. I also benefit for the refurbishing and correct any defects. A new start for the bike in full festive period. The bike also has a right to Christmas. I'll be in Piura on 28 and near Trujillo on 29. Since the Pan American Sullana through the desert Sechura. A desert Sandy on huge kms. Landscape of the world's end, nil. On either side of the road still stretches of sand, stone and sand dunes. Some vegetation persisted in some places despite the heat and despite the strong winds that blow.
I spend four nights, two in Piura, Chiclayo and to a in Huanchaco near Trujillo in real loner. Solitude, that of the interior, pointing the tip of his nose. It's strange. Friends are missing and I often think of them.
I'm leaving tomorrow to Huaraz, Cordillera Blanca in the middle of 3000 meters above sea level. The road between Huaraz and Chimbote is considered one of the most beautiful in Peru. I hope to arrive tomorrow evening. So I will spend December 31 in Huaraz hopefully.
Monday, December 20, 2010
Guinness Beer Dog Collar
Cuenca - Montanitta: There are days like this ...
I thought quickly arrived in Cuenca . Instead the route was difficult. Juice only Alausi conditions have been rather good. The Pan American offers spectacular views of the valleys along the route. The scenery is awesome and monstrous. A few miles before arriving in the province of Canar the weather deteriorates. The rain and fog would not leave me to Cuenca. The conditions are difficult. The cold weather and playing on the mind. But we must keep. I will be arriving in Cuenca late afternoon happy to find better conditions and a more profitable time.
I quickly found a hotel that I had spotted in a guide and settle down.
I will not stay long in Cuenca. I visit the center the next day that is classified as a World Heritage Site for its beautiful church and cathedral adorned with its two blue domes so famous. Then I'm leaving towards second port of Guayaquil and economic center.
I keel the city with the sun. I shall soon return to the rain. The road leaves to go to Cuenca Cajas National Park and tack it in the middle of lakes and desert mountains. Came up the road is growing and now I roll on a 3-way that goes down the other side of the valley. The road is excellent and along steep slopes with views of the breathtaking valleys. A real pleasure to ride. God knows if this is a moment of pure sensation bike are rare. I want to sire the times really you feel and steal from. It is this kind sensation I felt.
Below the mist waiting for me. It is thick and does not seem to want to leave. I drive slowly because I do not see more than 5 meters. The headlights of trucks traveling to reverse strike me at the last minute. Gradually everything becomes clear. Come down landscapes have changed. I finally just left Sierra and valleys of a thousand fields, volcanoes, cold, snow, "faithful dogs", mountains and jungle to find the Páramo and heat. The air is humide. Les bananiers ont remplacés les champs de papas. C’est un autre monde.
Ce changement me réjouis et me rempli de bonheur. Je crois que c’est ce que recherchais au fond depuis quelques jours.
Arrivé au bas de la vallée, la route est longue et s’étend loin devant moi. Point de courbes.
Quelques kms plus loin j’atteins le péages. Des vendeurs de mangues attendent patiemment le client. Puis je continue en direction de Guayaquil qui n’est plus qu’à 60 km. Plus loin la police m’arrête ainsi qu’un autre motard équatorien. Officiellement je roulais trop vite , au dessus des 100 km/h autorisé par la loi. La sanction est dure, 72 USD et mon permis à retirer à Guayaquil une fois l’amende payée. Ce que bien sûr je ne peux autoriser. Je prends le policier à part. Pour 20 USD je lui demande de me laisser repartir avec mon permis. Il ne mettra pas longtemps à accepter. A vrai dire je pense qu’il l’attendait. Je savais que la police était corrompue. Maintenant c’est sur. Du Vietnam à l’Equateur les méthodes sont les mêmes. Débarrassé du « problème » je repart repars aussi vite que je me suis fait stoppé. Le problème n’était pas ma vitesse. Même en dessous des 100km/h je me serais fait arrêté anyway. Corruption is a law above. It has its own law. (Look at the last video we see the police arrest me)
But the events unfold. 30 km before arriving in Guayaquil my rear wheel burst. It is 15:00. In 3 hours at night. We must act quickly. I stop at a toll of 500 meters and 100 meters of a toll. Luck in bad luck again. I'm going to call the SOS sent me an audience. 30 minutes later no trace of a truck. I finally go towards the toll to seek help, leaving my bike with all my business which does not reassure me. But I did not have much choice. On the way I stopped a car to save time. She stops me and burden beckon. A family inside the car. I ride in the front. A few hundred meters further on the police side down. The driver stopped and told me to go seek help to close the police, I had yet to corrupt a few minutes earlier to leave alone. The situation is comical. I ride in the back of the 4x4 and we left two policemen in the direction of the motorcycle. These few seconds behind were delicious.
Arrived at the motorcycle, police arrested the first car to come. The car stops. The officer explained the situation. We load the bike at 5 in the van. I thank the police. I ride in the back with the bike and another with Ecuador, the son of the driver. We drive to a "garage" at the entrance to the city of Guayaquil. Some refused. Finally one of them accepts. We leave the bike. I thank the driver and his son for helping me and gives a contribution.
I expect a good hour before the engineer, whose resemblance to Eddie Murphy is striking, taking care of me. His garage has resulted in a concrete shelter with a tin roof in what is a compressor and a bunch of tools. I am two steps from the slums of the city, located at each end of town. It is 17:00. In an hour it is night. Next to the bike an old car that lacks the two wheels mentioned on his rear bumper "Gracias a Dios, a mi madre and mi esposa" and diffuse baillet .
It will take an hour to repair the bike. Exhausted by the events I decide to go ahead and first hotel to leave for the coast tomorrow.
The next day I'll be in Montanita in the early afternoon. The village on the road del Sol in 3 hours from Guayaquil is known for its surfing and hippie side. However the winter changes a bit the situation. The waves and the sun are not the appointment. And the idea of finding William I knew in Cali is becoming a priority. It just arrived today Mancorra on the north coast of Peru. In two days I'll be Mancorra.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Brazilian Wax On Plus Size
the footsteps of Chimborazo and Balthazar cutter ice ....
Balthazar is the latest in a long tradition of more than a century of Chimborazo ice cutter. He went to the foot of the volcano's glacier twice a week to remove ice blocks they sold to markets in surrounding towns and villages, and has been for 15 years. A few years ago his father and brother accompanied him. It is only today to make the 8 hour round trip to the glacier.
His story is fascinating. Many photographers or people interested in television history and that it perpetuates. Even the show Beijing Express was interested in his case ...
When I arrived the next morning Balthazar is just preparation. He must harness the 3 donkeys accompanying to the glacier and ice cover. We leave around 19:30. The view of Chimborazo is clear.
On the way some people smile, seeing that I accompany Balthazar on this journey. We walk fast. Balthazar mounts quickly on one of the three asses. I press the not keeping pace. From the valley we reach the end of an hour and a half Páramo, these desert landscapes located between 3000 and 4000 meters. The scenery is magnificent. I am often in front to take pictures. The moment is magical.
Suddenly Balthazar stops for cutting of Para, shrubs Páramo main herb yellow, long and thin, and make successive heap. It takes clumps in her hands and waving, kind of like that slicks para cover the floor. In a stroke of Balthazar handle because of its scattered heap real braids. The gesture is precise. We feel that was repeated again and again.
After three hours after having exceeded the two shelters are tackling the climb to the ice. The moor becomes a wilderness of rocks and snowy slope is steeper. In the distance we see the wild vicuña, llama cousins living in the heights of the moor. Donkeys tired. The rise is slower but more technical. Temperature becomes lower and the fog rapidly formed from seeing clearly the Chimborazo. The clear sky that I saw early in the morning is long gone.
We reached the glacier after 4:00. I Balthazar leaves found his tools to go up and try to walk more to see, in vain, the summit of the volcano. I landed on the rocks a few moments. The air becomes colder and it starts to snow. The silence is total. There is no sound except that of snow falling on my coat. After some time I bothered by the cold descends to see Balthazar at work. The latter has already cut two blocks of ice and attacking a third. His action is slow, precise and efficient. Before long a third block gives the glacier.
I am especially appreciative of the work of Balthazar conditions Cold and snow are difficult and discourage me from staying too long. I leave him some food before leaving, and began the return journey.
The snow covered everything. The mountain is beautiful and wild. As far as I was down the cold disappears. Arriving at the moor, the rain set in and will not leave until I came to the community of Francisco where I live. The roads are slippery and I fell several times. I found the motorcycle community and I go Pilingui Capilla Capari completely muddy and wet in search of a hot shower and a good tea. I'll not see it but Balthazar have made me live a single ascent and allowed me to experience some of the history he writes a weekly amount in Chimborazo.
The rain eventually dissuades me to stay in the mountains. Time becomes more difficult in the hills. Tomorrow I decide to leave the community for the next day for the coast and Cuenca.
Can You Put Milk In A Keurig
few days in the community of San Francisco
It is now three days that I am based in the community of San Francisco a few miles from Riobamba. I live in the community house Capari Quilla. Pierrick father lives there now for 12 years. He helped build and design the house but he does not own. It belongs to the women of the community. San Francisco is surrounded by 20 other communities. Each is composed of 50 to 100 houses.
Pierrick lives surrounded by several volunteers. Charlotte and Thomas first couple of veterinarians in the community for two years. It involved almost daily in neighboring communities. I was able to attend a morning in the community of Asuncion. Then Ethienne water specialist who works with the water agency in France also came voluntarily. He is interested in water issues and especially the problem of irrigation. And finally Manon agronomy student involved in food production projects. All involved to help raise awareness and educate the communities.
Pierrick is the pastor of Calpe. It gives a daily Mass in the village for Métis and natives who live and go to Calpe. It was not always obvious for him to able to adapt to two audiences. Racism is strong between indigenous and mestizo, mixed some even going to forget their native origins. A few months ago a census of the population has been mobilized 300,000 youth for the investigation. Nevertheless the results are biased in advance if we consider here the origin is a point of view. There is indeed likely that the Métis do not declare themselves indigenous.
The latter, who feel more important, impose their will. Several times the father of Pierrick has to bow to their demand for to mass at the time they choose. He explains that this is the only way to make things easier and to satisfy everyone.
The view from Quilla Pacari is fantastic. You can see the Altar, the Tungurahua volcano, the second highest in Ecuador, Chimborazo, the tallest. According to legend, Chimborazo and Tungurahua had a son on Carihuarazo.
Off Tungurahua spit its smoke and ashes. For several days he is back in business. This is the most active volcano and the most watched in Ecuador. Already in 2009, residents of Banos, the town situated at the foot of the volcano had been evacuated to the nearby city Puyo. This year the scale is not the same but some steps have been taken. Climbing the volcano has been banned until further notice. However the landscape is no less surreal especially near Riobamba, where the view is even more incredible. At night the inhabitants of Banos can see the streams of lava flowing from the crater of the volcano. Since Pacari Quilla is a little more difficult.
Off Tungurahua spit its smoke and ashes. For several days he is back in business. This is the most active volcano and the most watched in Ecuador. Already in 2009, residents of Banos, the town situated at the foot of the volcano had been evacuated to the nearby city Puyo. This year the scale is not the same but some steps have been taken. Climbing the volcano has been banned until further notice. However the landscape is no less surreal especially near Riobamba, where the view is even more incredible. At night the inhabitants of Banos can see the streams of lava flowing from the crater of the volcano. Since Pacari Quilla is a little more difficult.
Around San Francisco as in the whole valley hundreds of plots draw the scenery. The region is predominantly agricultural. Each inhabitant has distributed some land here and there. Reunification policies are planned which will facilitate the cultivation of these plots and improved productivity. However these are difficult to apply now. The natives cultivate potato, quinoa, tomatoes, strawberries, rice throughout the valley.
The first day I'm leaving in the afternoon walk in the hills of San Francisco. From the top we saw the whole valley of Riobamba and the valleys of San Juan and Guaranda. Soils, origin volcanic sand and very little organic matter compounds. The land is very permeable. Water is a real problem for communities. Studies are being made to explain the origin of the water used by residents for irrigation. A major part of their water from the melting glacier Volcan Chimborazo. The other part of rainwater, although the level of rainfall remains low with 500 ml per year. With global warming the ice is changing. His days are numbered. According to studies the glacier will be gone in about 50 years when he is at the moment the main source of water for local communities with much of the water from melting snow and rain. Meanwhile the main problem remains the distribution of water for irrigation purposes. A canal system was set up to distribute power to turn water channeled upstream from San Francisco. Studies are being made to fund works to improve the network in order to achieve a more even distribution and better organized.
Thursday I went to the market Guamote. All communities in the region there make doing business and sell their crops for the week. It is held as a animal fair is the place most folk market. Pigs and sheep in the midst of a teeming crowd electric. Prices are firm battles. It must be said that a purchase is therefore for the community. Prices vary between 120 and 200 U.S. dollars a beast. I even at the crowd. Here here and here customers leave with their newly acquired animals that scream endlessly showing their fear and refusal to go further. But the strength of man prevails. Along grids animals are piled alongside us to others feet bound so they do not go away.
The colors are everywhere. Women more than men still wear traditional clothing made in the bottom of a skirt and top Anako a tunic held by a belt. However in general even in communities holding traditional disappears in favor of Western clothes. Improved roads and infrastructure and proximity to villages with the cities has changed a lot. The direction and future of new generations is modified, for example. If more children participate in youth farm work, later big they only dream to go.
Returning market I prepared my ascent of Chimborazo for tomorrow. Yves I met in Bogota and with whom I am here told me about a "cutter ice" with which one could climb to Volcano. Arriving in Quilla Pacari, I discussed with Father Balthazar tells me about the last ice cutter volcano Chimborazo. The latter lives in some communities here. I go visit him to arrange the day tomorrow. Balthazar is still arriving at Chimborazo. I arrange the appointment early in the morning with his daughter.
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